Posted on September 26 2026
For about twenty years the double-breasted suit was shorthand for either a 1980s trading floor or a wedding you were forced to attend. It's back, and the modern version bears very little resemblance to either.
The difference is in the cut.
What changed
The old double-breasted was long, boxy, and wide in the shoulder, with a low button stance that created a large expanse of fabric across the middle. It made almost everyone look heavier.
The current cut is shorter in the body, higher in the button stance, and closer through the waist. The lapel is narrower and the shoulder is softer. The result is a jacket that creates a V rather than a rectangle.
The Paul Betenly Double Breasted in Summer Blue is a good demonstration of the modern proportion, and the lighter colour keeps it from reading as severe.
The one rule you cannot break
Keep it buttoned when you're standing.
A single-breasted jacket looks fine open. A double-breasted one does not, because the overlapping front panel has nothing to hold it and hangs off to one side. The whole silhouette depends on the closure.
Undo it when you sit, do it up when you stand. It becomes automatic within a day.
Which button?
Most double-breasted jackets are 6x2, meaning six buttons, two of which fasten. Fasten the top one of the two functional buttons and leave the lower one open. Some men fasten only the lower. Either is accepted. Fastening both looks tight and restricts movement.
There's also a hidden button inside called the jigger, which anchors the underlapping panel. Use it. If you don't, the front will twist.
Who it suits
Honestly, it flatters more builds than its reputation suggests.
Tall and slim men get the most obvious benefit, because the horizontal element of the button arrangement adds visual width.
Shorter men should look for a higher button stance and a narrower lapel, which lengthens the line rather than cutting it.
Broader men are often told to avoid it. That's overstated. A well-cut double-breasted with a deep V and a clean waist can be very flattering. A poorly cut one is not. The rule is fit, not body type.
When to wear it
It is inherently a touch more formal than single-breasted. That makes it excellent for weddings, evening events and any occasion where you want the outfit to feel deliberate.
It is less suited to a business environment where you'll be taking your jacket on and off constantly, purely for the practical reason above.
The single-breasted alternative
If you're not ready, a patterned single-breasted jacket delivers some of the same presence with none of the button management. The Pink Blue Windowpane blazer is a good example of a jacket that carries an outfit on its own.
Try one on before you decide
This is a style that photographs poorly and wears well. Almost every man who tries a modern double-breasted is surprised by it.
Browse suits or visit us in Markham.
Common questions
Is a double-breasted suit still in style?
It has come back properly and shows no sign of leaving. The modern cut is shorter and softer through the shoulder than the eighties version, which is what makes it wearable.
Should you ever unbutton a double-breasted jacket?
Keep it fastened while standing. You can undo it when seated, but the jacket is cut to be closed and looks best that way.
Can a shorter man wear double-breasted?
Yes, with a 4x1 or 6x2 button stance and a higher gorge. The long unbroken line of the lapel is lengthening, not shortening.
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