Posted on October 16 2026
Good leather shoes are among the few things you can buy that improve with age, provided they're looked after. Neglected, they age in exactly the wrong direction.
None of this takes long. Most of it takes minutes a month.
One: rotate
If you take nothing else from this, take rotation.
Leather absorbs moisture from your foot throughout the day, and it needs roughly 24 hours to dry out properly. Wearing the same pair every day means the leather never fully recovers, and permanently damp leather breaks down at the flex point.
Two pairs alternated will outlast three pairs worn consecutively. It's the cheapest possible improvement.
Two: use cedar shoe trees
A cedar tree does two jobs simultaneously. Cedar absorbs interior moisture, which addresses the problem above. And the tree holds the shoe's shape so the upper doesn't crease into a permanent fold across the vamp.
Insert them while the shoe is still warm from your foot, which is when the leather is most receptive to being reshaped.
Buy unfinished cedar rather than varnished or plastic. Varnish blocks absorption, which defeats the point.
Three: condition before you polish
This is where most people go wrong. Polish and conditioner do different jobs.
Conditioner or cream replaces the oils that leather loses over time. It's what keeps the leather flexible and prevents cracking. Apply sparingly every ten to fifteen wears, let it absorb for twenty minutes, then buff.
Wax polish sits on the surface. It provides shine and a degree of water resistance but it doesn't nourish anything. Wax over dry leather is like painting over rot.
Condition first, always. Polish is optional. Conditioning is not.
Four: brush after wearing
A horsehair brush removes dust and grit before it works into the seams and the welt. Fifteen seconds per shoe. This is the equivalent of brushing a suit and it matters for the same reason: abrasion is what wears things out.
The mistakes worth avoiding
Drying wet shoes near heat. A radiator or a vent will cook the leather and crack it. Stuff with newspaper and dry at room temperature, away from any heat source.
Over-polishing. Layers of wax build up and eventually crack. Less, more often, is the rule.
Ignoring the welt. The stitching where the upper meets the sole is what allows a shoe to be resoled. Keep it clean and conditioned and a good shoe can be resoled several times.
Waiting until the sole wears through. Resole when the sole is thin, not when there's a hole. Once water reaches the insole the damage is done.
Suede is different
No polish, no cream. A suede brush to lift the nap, a rubber eraser block for marks, and a protective spray applied before first wear and refreshed each season.
Suede is more durable in wet conditions than people assume, provided it's been treated. Untreated suede in a GTA winter is a short story.
The economics
A resole costs a fraction of a new pair of good shoes and can be done several times on a properly welted shoe. That's why buying one good pair and maintaining it costs less over ten years than buying cheap pairs repeatedly, and looks considerably better throughout.
Shoes worth caring for
- Johnston & Murphy Sullivan Wingtip, Black
- Johnston & Murphy Luther Lace-to-Toe, Cognac
- Johnston & Murphy Reeves Chelsea Boot, Tan
Come in for the basics
Trees, brushes, cream and a protective spray. We'll show you which product suits the leather you own.
Browse dress shoes and boots, or visit us in Markham.
Common questions
How often should you polish dress shoes?
Condition every four to six wears, polish when the shine dulls. In a GTA winter, wipe them down after every salted walk regardless.
Do shoe trees really matter?
More than polish. Cedar trees pull moisture out and hold the shape while the leather dries, which is what stops the creases becoming cracks.
How do you get salt stains off leather shoes?
One part white vinegar to two parts water on a soft cloth, wiped along the stain, then condition once dry. Never scrub dry salt.
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