Posted on October 19 2026
A good men's wool-blend overcoat should end between mid-thigh and just above the knee, fit over a blazer without pulling across the back, and come in navy before any other colour. Buy it in your blazer size, try it on over a jacket, and check that the sleeve fully covers the jacket sleeve underneath.
How long should a men's overcoat be?
For most men the most useful overcoat length is mid-thigh: long enough to cover a blazer completely, short enough to sit in a car comfortably.
Around the GTA, most of us get in and out of a car several times a day, and a coat that reaches below the knee bunches under you and creases across the back. A mid-thigh coat covers your jacket and still looks right with jeans on a Saturday. One firm rule: a blazer hem should never show below the coat.
A knee-length coat is warmer and more formal over a suit. If you are on the shorter side, be careful: a long coat cuts your height, and mid-thigh is usually more flattering.
How should an overcoat fit over a blazer?
An overcoat should fit over a blazer the way a blazer fits over a shirt: close at the shoulders, with enough room to move your arms without the back going tight.
Try it on over a jacket, then reach forward as if for a steering wheel. If the coat pulls across the shoulder blades or the buttons strain, go up a size. The shoulder seam should sit at or just past the edge of your shoulder, never drooping down the arm.
Sleeves should cover the blazer sleeve completely and finish around the base of your thumb. Long sleeves are the easiest fix on most coats, so never pass on a coat that fits everywhere else because the sleeves run long. Our guide to what can and cannot be altered covers the rest.
On sizing: all four JOOP pieces below are listed as regular fit. Start with your blazer size, then try it over the thickest layer you plan to wear underneath, whether that is a tailored jacket or a chunky quarter-zip.
What colour overcoat should you buy first?
Navy is the best first overcoat colour because it works over black, grey, brown and blue clothing and looks right with dress shoes and leather sneakers alike.
Charcoal is a close second and a little more formal. Light grey looks sharp and modern, but it shows salt and slush, so it makes a better second coat than a first one. Black is dressy but can look severe over brown shoes and casual clothes.
If you buy one coat, buy navy. If navy is already in your closet, light grey is the most interesting next step.
Which JOOP coat is right for you?
The four JOOP pieces we carry this fall do four different jobs, from a business coat to a jacket that can replace a blazer.
- JOOP Navy Wool-Blend Coat with Hooded Inlay, Mid Length ($1,195): 70% wool, 25% polyamide, 5% other fibres. A stand-up collar with leather button fastening and a removable quilted insert with faux fur trim inside. Leave the insert out in October and zip it back in for January. This is the one I would hand most men.
- JOOP Navy Wool-Blend Coat with Hooded Inlay ($1,195): the navy coat with a classic lapel, a zip-in quilted inlay with its own stand-up collar, side welt pockets and full lining. Choose it if you wear a suit and tie most days.
- JOOP Light Grey Wool-Blend Jacket With a Stand-Up Collar ($1,195): 70% wool, 20% polyester, 10% polyamide in a minimalist pattern, with a stand-up collar trimmed in soft teddy fur, chest welt pockets, side flap pockets and a back vent. A smart second coat for dry, cold days.
- JOOP Black Hybrid Knit Jacket with Quilted Inlay ($995): blazer structure with knitwear comfort, ribbed knit sleeves, patch pockets and a zippered quilted inlay. Wear it in place of both blazer and coat through early fall.
Is a wool-blend coat as warm as pure wool?
A blend that is 70% wool keeps most of the warmth of pure wool, and the synthetic fibres add strength where coats wear out.
Polyamide and polyester resist rubbing from seatbelts and bag straps. What makes the JOOP navy coats suitable for a real Canadian winter is the quilted layer: without it you have a fall coat, with it you have a winter one.
Care is simple. Brush the coat after wearing it, hang it on a wide wooden hanger so the shoulders keep their shape, and dry clean it once or twice a season rather than every few weeks. The same habits that make a suit last ten years apply to a good coat.
Common questions
Should my overcoat be one size bigger than my blazer?
Usually not. Start with your blazer size and only go up if the back pulls when you reach forward with a jacket on. A coat that is too big looks borrowed.
Can I wear an overcoat with jeans?
Yes. A navy coat over a quarter-zip and dark jeans is one of the best fall weekend outfits there is. A mid-thigh length works better than knee length with casual clothes.
Can an overcoat be shortened?
Sometimes. Shortening a coat is a bigger job than sleeves because of the pockets, vent and lining, and it works best when the change is modest. Bring it in and our tailors will tell you honestly.
Where to find these coats
Shop the JOOP Navy Wool-Blend Coat with Hooded Inlay, Mid Length, the lapel version, the light grey jacket and the hybrid knit online, or come see us at 166 Bullock Drive in Markham and try them over your own blazer. We ship free across Canada and the US on orders over $75; duties may apply on imported brands for US orders.
